Even in my beloved left-wing, local-produce, low-mileage, Alice Waters-worshiping city, it's tough to find a genuinely exquisite vegetarian meal. Especially if you're dining out with non-veg friends.
So out of the vegetarian ghetto and into the mainstream I go, delicately picking my way across the city's best menus. It's one thing to review a restaurant when you can eat everything they offer. It's another to test the mettle of their solitary "alternatives".